Bursa, in Turkey, is one of the cities that marked the soul of the Turkish writer and poet Ahmet Hamdi Tanpınar. Bursa is, in a way, Ahmet Hamdi Tanpınar himself. After the relocation of the capital of the Ottoman Empire to Istanbul, his thoughts on Bursa as a city driven into solitude correlates with the loneliness he experienced throughout his life.
Undoubtedly, it is a unique city that can be greatly admired with its historical texture, although it is slightly disturbed due to the increase in tourism in the region.
As a general rule, when I embark on a new trip to a new city, I want to explore every corner of it and its famous dishes. However, the places recommended on the Internet are those that are popular on social networks and somehow lack quality and authenticity. For this reason, my friend from Bursa was my guide on my short but colorful trip.
Located on the flanks of Uludağ (Great Mountain) and witness to the birth of the Ottoman Empire, Bursa is very difficult to explore in two days – a week may be needed at least. However, for those who do not have the possibility of taking a long vacation, this quick tour will help you get to know the most emblematic places in the city and discover the most beautiful flavors.
Take your time in the serene courtyards of inns
Bursa, as an important trading city throughout history, is home to many inns and bazaars which have kept the pulse of the economy alive. Especially for traders who had to pass through Anatolia’s trade routes, inns were older versions of today’s hotels, a great place to spend a night. Bazaars, consisting of narrow and long streets with shops, developed alongside inns in new areas of the city during the Orhan Gazi period.
Since every inn in the Ottoman period monopolized the task of being a covered market for some type of material, the trade item that was sold to retailers and craftsmen also lent its name to this inn. For example, if the article was made of cotton, it was called “cotton inn”.
You can find almost anything you are looking for in this area, which is very similar to the Grand Bazaar area of Eminönü in Istanbul. If you want to catch your breath after a long shopping spree, you can drink a coffee on the coals in the peaceful courtyard of Koza Han (Chrysalis Inn), where you will be greeted by the chirping of birds and high-quality silk products, or you can enjoy a moment of calm with the essential Turkish tea-simit duo.
Kayhan Bazaar in the hostel area is where the “meatballs with pita” (pideli köfte) restaurants are concentrated. The smell of melted butter that tantalizes your nostrils as you enter the bazaar is one of the hallmarks of the spot. Meatballs with pita are very similar to Turkish iskender kebab. Specific to Bursa, this unique flavor is also called “kebab gariban”, especially by the inhabitants of Bursa, because it costs less.
Along with pita meatballs, a drink called şıra is served alongside to ensure that the butter does not upset the stomach. Şıra is a Turkish soft drink made from lightly fermented grape juice.
Founders of the Ottoman Empire
The tombs of Osman Gazi and Orhan Gazi, the founding fathers of the Ottoman Empire, are located in the Tophane district. Many people who want to commemorate their ancestors show great interest in these graves. They are located about 10 minutes from Bursa Ulu Mosque.
Those who come to Tophane also have the chance to see the city from above. The famous cannon shots heard from all parts of the city during Ramadan are fired from here, as the neighborhood is named after. Also, the first building that comes to mind in this area is the clock tower. There are three different Turkish flags on top of the tower.
700-year-old village: Cumalıkızık
The historic character of the village with its cobblestones has been very well preserved and is an excellent example of rural civil architecture from the early Ottoman period. Due to this feature, the village was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List. The villages located between the slopes of Uludağ are called “kızık”. It is assumed that either the villagers gathered for Friday prayers or the village was founded on a Friday, Cuma in Turkish, giving it the name Cumalıkızık.
Local women in the village sell many handmade sun-dried foods made from curds, tomatoes and flour, noodles and delicious black mulberry juice.
Deep History of Gölyazı Peninsula
Gölyazı is also known as Apollonia, the name of an ancient sun god, and is one of the wealthiest settlements in Bursa. There are two peninsulas north of Lake Uluabat and seven nearby islands. Gölyazı is connected to the island in the middle of this lake by a bridge. The village was home to Turks and Greeks who lived peacefully for years.
One of the monuments of the village is the “weeping plane tree” because of the red liquid that flows from its trunk. There are also many legends attributed to the tree, including lovers who were unable to reunite. The island can be visited via fishing boats accompanied by the sunset.
I had the chance to meet the famous stork of the island, and even of Turkey, “Yaren”, which means “close friend” in Turkish. It was on the shore, taking in some rays on a balmy spring day.
Gourmet Glazed Chestnuts
This candy flavor is attributed to Bursa’s special formula. Made with chestnuts harvested from trees in the foothills of Uludağ, there are many local stores where candied chestnuts can be purchased in several varieties, such as pistachio-filled or chocolate-coated.
This delicacy is so popular that it has received a geographical indication from the Turkish Patent and Trademark Office.
It is quite easy to visit Bursa from Istanbul. If you want to bypass the traffic, you can take Bursa passenger ferries from IDO Yenikapı Pier. During your expedition, you can enjoy the blues of the Sea of Marmara during your 1.5-hour trip.